domingo, 12 de octubre de 2008

HUEVOS A LA MEXICANA 425m 7b+. Pared de El Toro. Potrero Chico, México

HUEVOS A LA MEXICANA. 5.12C .425 meters. ( 12 pitches )
This is the last multipitch route opened in El Toro Wall, Potrero Chico. It was opened last summer 2008 with temperatures up to 40ºC ! Climbers: Oriol Anglada ( Catalonia, Spain ), Rudy Salinas ( Mexico ) and Emilio " Uvando " Plasencia ( mexico ) could just climb after 2 o'clock when the shade reached the North Wall of el Toro.
The route is definetly one of the finest routes in the wall, compared to Sendero Luminoso but not as sustained. It has face technical moves, thin cracks, diehdrals, etc. There is the intention to finish the last two pitches to the top of Sendero Luminoso ( probably during winter 2008-09 ).Then it will have more than 500 meters of enjoyable climbing.
Gear : 13 quickdraws,1 set of friends ( for pitches 5 and 12 ), 2 ropes of 50 meters.
Descent ; Rappel the route or either use Sendero Luminoso anchors from the ledge to the ground. Other option is using Land of the Free anchors from the ledge. Both option are straight down to the ground.
For slow parties it is possible to use the Sendero Luminoso ledges ( a fixed rope from the end of pitch 6 )to vivouac there.

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