TOUMBOUCTOU. Pared de Drisdiuen.300m 7c+ Akchour. Marroc

Ja en van 10! Són 4000 metres d'apertures !! A pel 8000 ...

Aquesta entrada d'any ha sigut rifenya, en tots els seus àmbits... Hem obert una nova via d'esportiva, Toumbouctou, a la pared de la Rueda. La pared és increhiblement sostinguda (desploma quasi tota la seva totalitat) amb llargs de chorreres y plaques tècniques de regletes i forats. La roca és brutal, de vegades massa punxeguda i l'hi hem tret l'agressivitat del tacte treient-li les punxes amb el martell.
L'Edu i en Jesus han obert després SAHARA ,un altre viot que evita la part central més desplomada pel murs grisoss amb llargs també excepcionals. Aquestes son les dues primeres vies de la pared. Actualment les pareds d'Akchour ja deuen tenir una vintena de vies si és que hi arriba. Segur que hi tornem, el lloc invita ...NOMÉS CINTES!
Moltes gràcies Abdul, Rachid i Hakim!

NURI. Peña Santa de Castilla (Picos de Europa) 620m 7b

Nueva vía en la Peña Santa de Castilla, Picos de Europa. Abierta en Octubre 2011. Se trata de un itinerario largo, exigente y con una roca excepcional. Una larga excursión de excelente caliza y con mucho ambiente. Sin duda muy recomendable. Probablemente uno de los itinerarios en caliza más largos de la península, junto con el Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes). Salvaje, aislada y llena de energías positivas. Las panorámicas aéreas y la escalada técnica hacen de esta ruta, a nuestro gusto, una de las rutas más interesantes de Picos.

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• NURI FOTOS

SUPERENERGY 24 HORAS. Pilar de Sobrarbe (Peña Montañesa, Aragón). 420 m. 8a

A new hard route in Pilar de Sobrarbe. An impressive limestone pillar with excellent rock. Adventure climbing with demanding and sustained pitches. Long and exposed runnouts. Beautiful line on excellent rock. Mandatory 7a+/b. It was free climbed in two days.

NAYERI 500m 7b. Pico Tatewari. La Huasteca (Monterrey, México)

This stone huichol god allowed us to open a new route on his south face. Just behind Monterrey there are many virgin walls still waiting for a first ascend. Our choise though brought us to Tatewari, probably the highest wall in La Huasteca, with three other routes. The limestone is superb and the pitches varied combining technical face climbing and spectacular airy dihedrals.

• TOPO

TSARA NORO- MADAGASCAR

HUEVOS A LA MEXICANA 425m 7b+. Pared de El Toro. Potrero Chico, México

HUEVOS A LA MEXICANA. 5.12C .425 meters. ( 12 pitches )
This is the last multipitch route opened in El Toro Wall, Potrero Chico. It was opened last summer 2008 with temperatures up to 40ºC ! Climbers: Oriol Anglada ( Catalonia, Spain ), Rudy Salinas ( Mexico ) and Emilio " Uvando " Plasencia ( mexico ) could just climb after 2 o'clock when the shade reached the North Wall of el Toro.
The route is definetly one of the finest routes in the wall, compared to Sendero Luminoso but not as sustained. It has face technical moves, thin cracks, diehdrals, etc. There is the intention to finish the last two pitches to the top of Sendero Luminoso ( probably during winter 2008-09 ).Then it will have more than 500 meters of enjoyable climbing.
Gear : 13 quickdraws,1 set of friends ( for pitches 5 and 12 ), 2 ropes of 50 meters.
Descent ; Rappel the route or either use Sendero Luminoso anchors from the ledge to the ground. Other option is using Land of the Free anchors from the ledge. Both option are straight down to the ground.
For slow parties it is possible to use the Sendero Luminoso ledges ( a fixed rope from the end of pitch 6 )to vivouac there.

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• HUEVOS A LA MEXICANA Topo and Info

PACHAMAMA MAGIC LANDS

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• MAGIC LANDSCAPES

LE CAOS DE TARGASSONE

This boulder site is just perfect. 10 minuts from home and good granite with about 1500 problems. The landscape of La Cerdanya is even nicer from here.

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• PHOTOS & INFO


• THE BOOK TOPO LE CAOS DE TARGASSONE

Photo Gallery

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• VETIQUALITY GALLERY

HIJOS DEL AGOBIO 180m 7a. Contrafuerte Punta Zanzi. Cajón del Maipo, Chile

HIJOS DEL AGOBIO . 6C+ 180 m
Contrafuerte de la Punta Zanzi
Beautifull and demanding route on abrasive hard sandstone .
Need a full set of aliens and friends . 10 bolts on the route including belays
While climbing at altitude the OVNI's may appear...Some has been seen there

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• Photos, Topo and Info

EL TEMPLE DE HANNUMAN 160m 7c+. Pilar del Segre (Vilanova de Meià), Catalunya

EL TEMPLE DE HANNUMAN . 7c+/8a 150m VILANOVA DE MEIÀ
this line goes throw the obvious overhang in the middle of El Pilar del Segre. This area in Vilanova had only aid climbing routes but not for ever... the quality of the moves ,the excelent limestone, tufas to hold and a gruyere overhang at the end of the Gran Bòveda.5 pitches. 3 pitches with continuous overhang. 7c, 7c+, 7c+ and two more on gold granite with a last small overhang on top. 7a+, 6c+
All bolted. It was opened from below most in aid, basically hooking.

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• Photos, Topo and Info

EL GUARDIÁN DE PACHAMAMA 700m 7b. Puscanturpa Sur (Cordillera Huayhuash, Perú)).

EL GUARDIAN DE PACHAMAMA . 7b 700 m-

PUSCANTURPA SUR . CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH

A magic place of mother earth. It was opened in july 2005. The only route of this wall at that moment. The climb is alpine, at pretty high altitude, 5300m on top stopped by a field of penitentes,ice formations.The rock is graneodorite creating dihedrals like the ones of basalt. Perfect cracks in the 100m wall after first pitches. Then follows a buttress to a final wall very airy.

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• EGDP PHOTOS, TOPO AND INFO

VIA LACTEA 280m 7b+. Peñón Blanco (Durango, México)

VIA LACTEA. 5.12c 280m.PEÑOÑ BLANCO. DURANGO

This beautiful granite dome stands high on the semidesert Sierra de Durango. It's rock quality and the solitude you feel there were more than enough reasons to go for a new route...
When the sun goes down Via Lactea appears showing its way to infinity

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• VIA LACTEA Photos, Topo and Info

MALI. SURI TONDO. LUNAR ECLIPSE 420m 7c+

LUNAR ECLIPSE . 7c+ 420m MAIN DE FATIMA
North Face SURI TONDO
Opened march 2007
Splendid straight up line mixing cracks, offwidth, faces and roofs (7) on excellent rock.
Mandatory 6c+/C2
Gear: 1.5 sets of aliens and camalots to number 4,5. Bolts 8mm includng belays.

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• LUNAR ECLIPSE Photos, Topo and Info